This route will test each and every one of your senses as it hurls you through the seemingly untouched wilderness of the northern portion of Yosemite National Park. From crippling heat exhaustion to the merciless technical ascents, this route will give you all the beating and battering your body requires!
If doing this route during the summer, make sure you refill water at any and every possible chance. Oftentimes drought will dry up some of the river beds; so although you may have a pretty National Geographic map, it may not be a realistic interpretation of the water pattern. NPS releases statements detailing the water situation in the High Country, so make sure you contact them while in the planning stage for this self-supported undertaking.
If you wish to parcel this sufferthon into an easier to manage, multi-day trip then you should go to a Ranger Station to obtain the necessary permits. Once this has been obtained you can freely camp just about anywhere along this route. I recommend camping around Smedberg lake as this pristine location is actually the remotest lake in the park. It may be difficult to find a place to camp in the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
so if you do not think you can make it through then it would probably be in your best interest to sack out in Pate Valley
Watch out for rattlesnakes!! We were warned by numerous fellow high campers of the dangers associated with the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
. In fact, at mile 40, we were ascending a gradual, rocky portion of the trail when we ran into a rattler coiled in the middle of the trail. Without warning this thing springs from the abyss and narrowly misses my ankle. Make sure to keep a constant roving eye on this 14-mile section.
If you have plans on taking pictures then you better make a mental note to do it. I was on the struggle bus for so long that I totally neglected to take very many photos. In hindsight, it is a regret that I harbor.
On the descent from Pate Valley into the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
there is actually a barbed wire fence across the trail!!!! It is the most bizarre thing since it is the only trail leading from that direction.
Standing directly in front of the Tuolumne Meadows store, gaze across the meadow that eagerly beckons for exploration. One can't help but notice the well-traveled path that has been hewn into the landscape. Take this flat trail through the meadow as it will veer to the left for the first 1.3 miles.
From here, continue straight instead of taking the right that leads to the stables. In 0.4 miles there will be an option to continue straight in order to go to Young Lakes
. Make sure you save that for another day and instead follow the signs to Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp. The next 4 miles are a gradual downhill that present some of the most picturesque views in the park. The trail provides the runner a series of cascading waterfalls and views that are too perfect for words. The composition of the footpath thus far will primarily be a loose, sandy substance that is gently sprinkled over the granite, which can be very slippery at times. There is also heavy mule traffic to the High Sierra Camps.
As you head further out, enjoy the last remnant of civilization and quite possibly, the last human encounter you'll have the rest of the day. Realize that from this point, one is totally self-supported as you ascend the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) that leads northwards out of Glen Aulin. After climbing for a bit, the trail will open up into a beautiful meadow that eventually becomes Cold Canyon. As the trail begins to descend, one is filled with a sense of majestic awe as the treeline on the left will often give way to majestic views. After 7 miles on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) there will be a river crossing that comes from McCabe Lakes. Be aware that the river may be flowing, even late in the year.
In one mile the trail will split and one must take the left fork and follow the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) as you DO NOT want to go into Virginia Canyon. For the next 5.8 miles follow the trail exactly (without cutting switchbacks). There is plenty of tree cover to shade you as you make the climb up to Miller Lake on this difficult trail that is interspersed with some technical rock. If you think this section of trail was tough, the next 7.5 miles causes one to question their sanity as a descent into Matterhorn Canyon is required. This is directly followed by the grueling and painstaking slog up Benson Pass. It is here where one is totally exposed as the sun, and progress can feel slow. The integrity of the trail here is poor, and the loose sand is not user-friendly.
From the top of Benson Pass, the descent to Smedberg Lake is much appreciated as it is not terribly technical. After a dip in the cool waters it is time to get back on the pony and struggle on around Volunteer Peak. It is here where you can forlornly wave goodbye to the well manicured Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). To cut off a half mile take the trail to the right and continue south through Rodgers Canyon.
From here it is all downhill to the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
...figuratively and literally. Although navigable through Rodgers Canyon, the trail becomes a nightmare going down into Pate Valley as it's overgrown with weeds and prickers and one wonders if this trail sees any use at all.
The switchbacks that lead into the canyon leave visitors exposed to the merciless rays of the sun and you'll want to bring you own sun protection with you here. Make sure you keep an eye on the trail (and use the Trail Run Project mobile app
) as sometimes it is hard to distinguish between animal trails.
From the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne
you have 14 miles to Glen Aulin. This section is composed of technical rock and enormous effort is required to climb up to Glen Aulin. However, the beauty of this section is surpassed by none as the canyon is filled with beautiful flowers and the roar of the Tuolumne.
Wildflowers abound in the height of Spring.